An E Ticket…and an EEK Ticket!

Last evening we attempted to follow the rather convoluted directions given to us by our hotel people. We were in search of the BEST restaurant in Giardini Naxos: Sea Sound. We walked around the cape — no sign. We walked up another road — no sign. We even asked two different people, one at the archaeological center — never heard of it. We finally found the right road and walked for about 1,000 miles (so it seemed). It had better BE WORTH IT, we said. We finally found the sign and then had to follow a winding narrow path down down down. We arrived at the restaurant and found it had an open-air roof and one entire side opening onto the sea. We ate a great meal, listening to the sound of waves crash below. After dinner, we peered out at the water just below us and spotted fireworks in the distance. The Italians are always celebrating life in some way. On the way back, we stopped and I had a Nutella (which is the consistency of peanut butter with with a chocolate hazelnut flavor) crepe, made before my eyes. Yum.

This morning it was clear and blue and warm. Not a wisp of a cloud. We jumped on our reserved bus and rode up to Taormina on our way to Etna. The bus was double decker and of course we had to ride on top for the extra thrill. The driver expertly navigated around the tight hairpin turns, the wheels seemingly right on the edge of the road…cliff…the sea farrrrrrr down below. What an E ticket that was! (Disneyland back in the day had coupons you had to buy to get on the rides. Their best rides were always designated as the ”E” tickets.) At one point, we had to back up (down the hill a bit) in order to let two other buses by that were coming down.  That was dicey.

We continued our way up towards Etna. Since the day was crystal clear, we had picture perfect views of Etna smoking in the distance. We arrived at the first level, 1800 meters. We all got off and then jumped onto jeeps that held about 25 people. Here is where the EEK Ticket ensued. We were slipping and sliding UP UP UP roads that were not paved, but made of crumbled lava. Again, the hairpin turns, but one false move and we would be dashed into a crater or down the side of smoking Etna. We passed swaths of lava…red, black, gray, sprinkled with clumps of yellow-green foliage poking up here and there between the forbidding rocks. Trees that had been mowed down and burnt white-crisp were either skewed here and there, or standing starkly alone.

We passed the cable car that was destroyed by the large eruption in 2002, the cable lines lying like limp spaghetti down the mountain. Former souvenir shops and restaurants were melted into a metal heap. Hmmmm….should we continue? Up we went to 2800 meters. We got out and walked around, marvelling at the terrain. On the way down, we stopped at one point and were able to scramble down a trail to the 1800 level, peering into a gaping crater created during the 2002 eruption. NO fence. If you weren’t sure-footed, one tumble would take you away.

The ride down was as eeky as the way up. I even had to close my eyes a couple of times as we made tight turns on the slippery lava. The temperature difference at the top was amazing. 25 celsius down below, 8 on top. The tramontana (cold north wind) blew the air clear.

We returned to our hotel, perched on the top of the double decker bus, having snagged the very front seats. Another E ticket!!! Our shoes are covered with the dust of Etna and our knapsack is bulging with lava rocks. It was a GREAT day!!!!

Time for dinner.

Tomorrow we are taking the train back to Palermo to catch a plane (on Wednesday) to Athens.

It’s all been worth it.

CIAOOOOOOOOOO!!!!

Taormina

Yesterday evening as we walked back through Taormina, we came across another wedding. The bride and groom were strolling along amidst the rest of the people all out for the evening passeggiata (the evening stroll). A camera man was following every move. It was a beautiful sight.

The main road back in Giardini Naxos, where we are staying, was closed off for the Festival of the Madonna of the Rock, so the bus let us out at some other place. We hoofed along the waterfront and soon arrived at our hotel. We had dinner at a great little trattoria along the water. Gino is going to turn into one big pasta noodle by the time he returns. I will be a fish since I’ve been eating seafood seafood seafood. And, of course, wine with every meal…except breakfast.

Before we left Taormina last night, we stopped at a quaint little bar that spilled UP some steep steps, cushions perched on the steps themselves with little tables balanced between. Middle Eastern music was playing. I was in heaven. Gino had two drinks, and I had a rather large glass of grappa. He was amazed that, yes, I drank the whole thing!

This morning after la colazione (breakfast) at the hotel — by the way, the hotel is gorgeous, filled with antiques and antiquities. The breakfast is yummy….salami, breads, fruit, cheese, cappuccini.

We bought two beach towels and walked down onto the sand just across from the hotel. Gino deserved a day to rest. He’s been such a good sport, exploring everywhere I drag him. He swam in the Mediterranean Sea while I read guide books. I took my turn in the water, and it was LOVELY! A little cool at first, but you immediately warm up, and then it just feels like the most refreshing water you’ve ever been in. It’s very salty and extremely clear.

We took a walk further down along the waterfront until we came to the Naxos archaeological excavations. It isn’t Pompeii, but still very interesting. There is a great little museum there filled with artifacts from these digs.

We had lunch, then jumped on a bus back up to Taormina. When we arrived, we took a cable car DOWN to mazzaro, the beach below, and then back up, just to have the thrill. Now we are walking around, joining the nightly passeggiata. We found an old church teeming with people. Around behind it we found an ancient Roman theater spilling out of the back wall of the church. Back in the front of the church we saw a priest in purple finery baptising a sweet little baby — ancient meets new.

Tomorrow…up to Etna.
Ciaooooooo!!

Melinda and Gino

It’s Worth It

That is the name of this trip for many reasons. I finally found another internet point in Taormina. It’s a bar-internet point, and the place is quite dark. I can barely see the keys, which makes it even worse for spelling, etc.

Where did I leave you… We explored all over Sciacca in the morning. There is such a mix of Sicilian and Arabic, in both the architecture as well as the people, the music, the culture.

We found a secluded little garden at the top of town filled with old Italian men sitting on benches and chatting. We took their pictures, and they were thrilled. The gardener was so proud of his garden, inviting us in to see the panorama and all his greenery. The Sicilians are very proud of their land and are so appreciative when we express such joy in also seeing their beauty. After Sciacca, we took the bus to Agrigento and spent the afternoon and evening wandering all over the Greek temples and ruins. We saw a couple having wedding pictures taken among the columns. Such a lovely contrast — the flowing white, sparkly dress of the bride and the ancient crumbly columns.

That night, we walked along the waterfront and had a fabulous meal. What meal isn’t fabulous!!!

In the morning, we took the bus out of town, after riding next to a local man who chatted with us the whole way to the main station, telling us about his life. His parents were killed by Mussolini’s fascists in the war. His wife died and he wants to get married again, but his 40 year old daughter won’t let him. Ah….life in Sicilia!

After Agrigrento, we took a taxi to Caltagirone, a very old town, also with Arabic origins. It is famous for its ceramics, and we explored every alley, nook and cranny, admiring all the different styles and colors. We had a campari and soda, and beer for gino, on a little terraced bar along a side street just down from the 142 stairs. Each rising is tiled with a
unique pattern and color of tile all the way across. We climbed to the top and admired the view back down.

Back to the taxi. We found out the bus for Caltagirone didn’t leave until 1:00 in the afternoon. Since it was around 9:00 a.m., we decided to be insane and ask how much a taxi ride would be, at least to Gela, which would get us much closer to Caltagirone. We settled upon a price, and off we went with a wonderful older taxi driver. As we approached Gela, we decided to have him drive us the rest of the way. The whole ride cost us 120 euro for 2.15 hours. We decided after all the walking and not taking taxis, plus getting some great prices on B&B’s, we could splurge. It was worth every cent. He dropped us off exactly in front of our hotel.

We arrived this morning at Giardini Naxos, at the foot of Taormina. We are here in Taormina now, already having explored the Greek amphitheater and the profusion of stepped streets and balconies overflowing with vivid flowers. We can see Mt. Etna smoking in the distance.

Gino is patiently waiting, most likely for a cold beer, so I will sign off for now.

Ciaooooooooo!!!

Sciacca

Sicily…this is truly a land of contrasts. In Palermo, every night we had to sleep with earplugs. Here in Sciacca…complete quiet. In Palermo, we visited the most magnificent buildings filled with glittering golden mosaics all over the ceiling, the walls, intricately patterned marble floors. Then we stepped outside, walked a block, and saw a huge crumbling hulk of a bombed out building from WWII.

 

The people are so friendly, even the ticket sellers and bus drivers! I very much appreciate that people don’t automatically try to speak English to me despite my ineptness with their language. They are so patient and kind. Everyone is helpful. We have seen very, very few Americans. (We are very happy about this!) People ask if we are Italians, then French, then, perplexed, have to ask.

We took a day trip from Palermo to Cefalu, a quaint fishing village along the Tyrrehnian Sea. We wandered the streets and then climbed La Rocca, overlooking to sea. There is an ancient temple to Diana perched high. It was worth the walk. Many cacti called “fichi d’india” here in Sicilia.

I ate two granite (plural of “granita”).  Granita is an Italian dessert or refreshment.  It is sort of like a snow cone, but far far superior – more like sorbet, but coarser.  It is semi-frozen water, sugar, and natural flavoring.). YUM. Speaking of food, we’ve tried so many local foods. There is a Sicilian custom of eating gelato tucked into a bun. Yesterday I had one filled with cannoli gelato. Fabulous!!!

We took a day trip to Monreale. There is a spectacular duomo there, filled with mosaics. Of course we had to climb up to the very top along the outside and were rewarded with an incredible view of the coastline in the distance. We also peered down into the cloisters with their Arabic-influenced arches and tiles.

Selinunte, the Greek ruins, were magical. One of the huge temples sits very high on a bluff overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. We are on the south coast of Sicily now. The color of the water is unbelievable…vivid blues and greens, swirling together to make intense turquoise.

Today we are exploring more of Sciacca. It’s one of the oldest town in Sicily and filled with many narrow streets and steep steps…my favorite! I guarantee we will be exploring them all.

La colazione (breakfast) is calling, so I will sign off until the next time I find a computer. Ciao!!!!!!!

Having a Blast!

I have been unable to send emails since we’ve been here because hotmail.com no longer works here. I finally figured out I must write hotmail.it since we’re in Italia.

We are fine. We are great! We’re having a blast. Too much to catch up with right now. I am just so relieved to finally get in contact!

We left Palermo this a.m. Went to the Greek ruins at Selinunte and now we are at Sciacca.

I will write more this eve.

Melinda and Gino

Off to Sicily and Greece

It’s been said that to know the real Italy, one must meet Sicily. So one week from tomorrow Gino and I will be on a plane headed to Palermo.

For ten days we will traverse the island, seeking out architecture and ancient ruins, tasting the local foods and wines, but most of all meeting the people and feeling the breath of their daily lives.

Then it’s off to Greece for another 10 days, first arriving in Athens where we are very excited to meet up with friends from Finland. Then the two of us will take off in a rented car to explore the eastern and southern end of the Peloponnese: Ancient Corinth, Epidaurus, Naplion, Mistras, and other exotic sounding names.

The cobbles are calling, the towers are beckoning, the maps are packed.

As I can, I’ll be sending periodic ramblings from the road via internet cafes.

We’ll see you in Sicilia!
Melinda & Gino

Travels to Italy 2006 – Highlights

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Here’s a taste of the Italy 2006 trip. The rest of it is on the Melinda Trips: Italy 2006 site, waiting for you to explore.

Melinda is now researching and planning a trip to Sicily and Greece for September 2007.